Seagaur or P-Line? - Page 2

red x · April 11th, 2012, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zooless

Thanks soars. I check that uni knot fairly often and have only had it fail once.........unfortunately there was a nice pike on the end of the line at the time. But it has otherwise held up well for me. I find that sometimes I actually want the stretch that mono has to it. I have my musky trolling reels spooled with mono and count on it to absorb some of the impact of a strike. I might give fluoro a try one one of my spinning rods this year. Are there any tricks to spooling it properly on a spinning reel?

bouble uni knot for braid to mono/fluor works

but I like double grinner knot, I use that for every thing :P

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clHNRQ2drBg

unless I am on the river side... then every thing is sloppy

Zooless · April 12th, 2012, 12:54 PM

Thanks for the suggestion red-x. I'll check out the video.

Zooless · April 12th, 2012, 02:14 PM

I just watched the video for the double grinner knot. It looks nice, I think I'll give it a try. What's the profile of the knot like compared to a double-uni? Does it go through the guides easily?

soars · April 12th, 2012, 04:02 PM

A very cool knot but I think the blood knot would be smaller yet.

red x · April 12th, 2012, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zooless

I just watched the video for the double grinner knot. It looks nice, I think I'll give it a try. What's the profile of the knot like compared to a double-uni? Does it go through the guides easily?

it's fine, no issues for me but try and see for your self. I was told this knot is best for braid to mono/fluor due to no cutting each other in high stress.

Avid Angler · April 12th, 2012, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zooless

I just watched the video for the double grinner knot. It looks nice, I think I'll give it a try. What's the profile of the knot like compared to a double-uni? Does it go through the guides easily?

I tie an Albright knot for my leaders(1/2albright for 50lb+), compact for the guides and really hangs on with the different diameters since its the braid that wraps around a loop of floro. I'll tie on a rod's length of Seaguar leader material to much smaller dia. braid. The extra length in the leader adds that Shock resistance your after and provides that toothy critter protection. Most my rods are now over 7'. Floro main line is not leader material. Biggest thing with the Seaguar is that tiny spool for $30 will prevent bite-offs where main line is just invisible with some abrasion protection.
Make sure you are using specifically "leader material" before the floro rave most fly fishermen have used it branded differently. Chemeleon leader from fenwick.

BassPro shop offers their own brand of leader material for less than the seaguar, no complaints for it.

I have a couple baitcasters which are spooled entirely of floro, ones the Gold stuff for clear water slop fishing and the other is 8lb for finesse fishing the clear water. I would still tie on a leader for Pike.

soars · April 12th, 2012, 07:54 PM

I look at it this way; if seaguars or any brand names line and "leader" say 100% fluorocarbon on the package then there's not that much of a difference at all. Yes they can throw in some smart wording like "double structured" and yes the resins are extruded differently but what you end up with is a harder line which they jack the price way up on. Not to mention that those expensive leader wheels kink much easier and when you want to get a loose knot out to save retying forget it with the expensive stuff. But also I'm talking from a float fishing perspective I have caught up to 5 steelhead before having to retie and that was just to be safe I used to use the expensive stuff but will never buy it again I find that because its hard it breaks off easier. Maybe it's a different ball game when you reach 50 and 60 lb test for pike.

Avid Angler · April 13th, 2012, 09:56 PM

It is not a gimic, It is an extremely expensive manufacturing process compared to the standard extrusion.

I meant Maxima not fenwick my bad on the other leader. I was using Titanium for Pike but they are expensive and do need replacing sometimes only after 2 fish but have fished a month on another. I have not lost a fish due to the floro. I have switched up leaders sometimes in the course of a day but that is after some 10+ pike. I tie leaders like you would buy in the store with snaps and swivels varying in length with the 50 and 60lb floro. It can kink and is hard to tie. Standard figure 8 knot is the smallest knot I found with very little waste on the tag end. Works amazing, stiff enough to keep subtle braid outta the hooks, helps run shallow cranks a little deeper. We all love the wide wobble from shallow cranks just hard to make the disappear under the surface. A nose down from the heavy floro will do exactly that. That $30 spool will make more $5 leaders than you burn through in a season of pike tournaments.

FishingMonkey · June 6th, 2012, 08:09 AM

Personally I've used Seaguar leader material and it's been great. I've also used P-Line products as well, but not their fluorocarbon, just the fluorocarbon coated line.

Regarding choice of line, there are a number of variables that needed to be considered when making a decision:

What type of water are you fishing in? Is it clear or murky?
Are you fishing deep or shallow?
What type of fish are you targeting?
What type of bait are you fishing?

When I fish crystal clear rivers for steelhead or trout, I prefer using pure fluorocarbon. It sinks better than mono and is practically invisible to the fish.

When I fish for bass, I use braid since I'm dealing with weeds and need the strength to be able to pull the fish out.

When I fish using lures with treble hooks (e.g. Mepps spinners or spoons) on a fast rod, I prefer mono to ensure the lures don't get pulled out of the fish's mouth. In some cases the fluoro-coated mono would be the best choice there since it gives the best of both worlds.

When I fish muskie, I prefer braid for the power to deal with the big boys.

When I fish carp, I use either mono or fluorocarbon. The fish are shallow and while they're picky, they're not as bad as the steelhead.

Finally, it depends on how much line I can afford to buy.

Hopefully that helps you out, and you can make a decision based on your particular fishing habits.

spinnerbaitking · June 6th, 2012, 02:07 PM

I've been using 12" to 36" Seaguar leader material 50 & 60 lb for Pike & Musky for a few years & like it, uni to uni knot, but Trillene & P line Flouro for tubes, dropshot & a few other techniques, I like Flouroclear for Crankbaits & Jerkbaits sometimes
Tight Lines SBK

April 12th, 2012, 12:54 PM	Post #12
Zooless Loyal Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Windsor, ON Posts: 363	Thanks for the suggestion red-x. I'll check out the video. _______________________________________________________________________ All fisherman are liars except you and me, but sometimes I'm not so darn sure about you.

April 12th, 2012, 02:14 PM	Post #13
Zooless Loyal Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Windsor, ON Posts: 363	I just watched the video for the double grinner knot. It looks nice, I think I'll give it a try. What's the profile of the knot like compared to a double-uni? Does it go through the guides easily? _______________________________________________________________________ All fisherman are liars except you and me, but sometimes I'm not so darn sure about you.

June 6th, 2012, 08:09 AM	Post #19
FishingMonkey Has too much time on their hands Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Uxbridge, Ontario Posts: 3,461 My Social Networks:	Personally I've used Seaguar leader material and it's been great. I've also used P-Line products as well, but not their fluorocarbon, just the fluorocarbon coated line. Regarding choice of line, there are a number of variables that needed to be considered when making a decision: What type of water are you fishing in? Is it clear or murky? Are you fishing deep or shallow? What type of fish are you targeting? What type of bait are you fishing? When I fish crystal clear rivers for steelhead or trout, I prefer using pure fluorocarbon. It sinks better than mono and is practically invisible to the fish. When I fish for bass, I use braid since I'm dealing with weeds and need the strength to be able to pull the fish out. When I fish using lures with treble hooks (e.g. Mepps spinners or spoons) on a fast rod, I prefer mono to ensure the lures don't get pulled out of the fish's mouth. In some cases the fluoro-coated mono would be the best choice there since it gives the best of both worlds. When I fish muskie, I prefer braid for the power to deal with the big boys. When I fish carp, I use either mono or fluorocarbon. The fish are shallow and while they're picky, they're not as bad as the steelhead. Finally, it depends on how much line I can afford to buy. Hopefully that helps you out, and you can make a decision based on your particular fishing habits. _______________________________________________________________________ FM To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

June 6th, 2012, 02:07 PM	Post #20
spinnerbaitking Getting the hang of it Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: South Bruce Posts: 143 My Social Networks:	I've been using 12" to 36" Seaguar leader material 50 & 60 lb for Pike & Musky for a few years & like it, uni to uni knot, but Trillene & P line Flouro for tubes, dropshot & a few other techniques, I like Flouroclear for Crankbaits & Jerkbaits sometimes Tight Lines SBK _______________________________________________________________________ Waterloo Wellington CBAF, CBAF Team Ontario 2009 Lake Huron Fishing Club Grey Bruce Bass Club To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

April 12th, 2012, 04:02 PM	Post #14
soars Apprentice Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: On the Water Posts: 535	A very cool knot but I think the blood knot would be smaller yet.

April 12th, 2012, 07:54 PM	Post #17
soars Apprentice Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: On the Water Posts: 535	I look at it this way; if seaguars or any brand names line and "leader" say 100% fluorocarbon on the package then there's not that much of a difference at all. Yes they can throw in some smart wording like "double structured" and yes the resins are extruded differently but what you end up with is a harder line which they jack the price way up on. Not to mention that those expensive leader wheels kink much easier and when you want to get a loose knot out to save retying forget it with the expensive stuff. But also I'm talking from a float fishing perspective I have caught up to 5 steelhead before having to retie and that was just to be safe I used to use the expensive stuff but will never buy it again I find that because its hard it breaks off easier. Maybe it's a different ball game when you reach 50 and 60 lb test for pike.

April 13th, 2012, 09:56 PM	Post #18
Avid Angler Needs a new keyboard Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Waverly Posts: 2,643	It is not a gimic, It is an extremely expensive manufacturing process compared to the standard extrusion. I meant Maxima not fenwick my bad on the other leader. I was using Titanium for Pike but they are expensive and do need replacing sometimes only after 2 fish but have fished a month on another. I have not lost a fish due to the floro. I have switched up leaders sometimes in the course of a day but that is after some 10+ pike. I tie leaders like you would buy in the store with snaps and swivels varying in length with the 50 and 60lb floro. It can kink and is hard to tie. Standard figure 8 knot is the smallest knot I found with very little waste on the tag end. Works amazing, stiff enough to keep subtle braid outta the hooks, helps run shallow cranks a little deeper. We all love the wide wobble from shallow cranks just hard to make the disappear under the surface. A nose down from the heavy floro will do exactly that. That $30 spool will make more $5 leaders than you burn through in a season of pike tournaments.

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